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Surfing | CEED
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Category Archives: Surfing

波のあるお盆休み


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熱帯低気圧が残したウネリがしばらく残り、そこそこに遊べる波が数日間続きました。ちょうどお盆休みにあたっている事もあり、連日海で過ごしている人も多いのではないでしょか。僕も毎日海に入ってすでに黒こげ状態です。それにしても今年は水温が高いです。この時期でも朝晩などは風があったりするとハダカでは少し肌寒い感じがする事もあるのですが、今年の湘南は水温が異常に高いようで、寒いどころかまるでフロにでも入っているようです。ハダカでサーフィンすると”これぞサーフィン!!”という感じで最高に気持ちがいいのですが、ここまで水温が高いのは少し心配ですねー。この前テレビで、「今年は水温26度の線がだいぶ北の方まであがっていて、本来西日本でしか取れない魚が東北方面でも獲れている」なんていう話をしていました。もちろん毎年の多少の変化って言うのは長い目で見れば有って当然なのですが、温暖化が叫ばれている中気になってしまいます。

台風のご褒美


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台風が3連休に当たるなんて珍しいことですよねー。ちょっとしたご褒美みたいです。
僕も金土日と連続で海に入りだいぶ筋肉疲労気味です。
さすがに今日は他のポイントは軒並みクローズアウト状態だったので、いつも台風が直撃コースで来た時に楽しみにしてるポイントに行って見ました。逗子海岸の手前、海の中に浪子不動という石碑が立っているところのアウトで、湾の奥真ん中へんから湾の奥に向かってブレイクするポイントで、台風の時しかできないのですがリーフらしいきれいな波です。
サイズは頭半からたまにダブルくらいと結構大きいのですが、分厚くスローピーな波で、海のど真ん中みたいなロケーションも手伝って、ちょっと日本とは思えないような雰囲気が味わえます。
ダブルくらいのセットをまともにくらうとさすがにこたえるのですが、あそこまで大きいと波に巻かれるのもまた理屈抜きで爽快な気分で、一緒に入った昔の同僚と、終始笑いあいながらのサーフィンでした。

ウネリ入荷しました。


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いよいよ4号からの波が入ってきました。
早速今朝は出勤前に、5時から1.5時間ほど入りました。サイズは胸位あったものの、昨日のオンショアの影響でぼよつき気味で、あまり良い波はありませんでした。うーん期待していただけに少しがっかり・・・・
3連休台風が当たるなんで素晴らしい!!、と思っていたのですが、どうやら明日以降もオンショアが吹いてしまうようです。
唯一明日の夕方は一時的に北風になる予報が出ています。どうなる事やら??

台風4号接近中


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やっと待ちに待った台風がやってきました。この前3号が来たときも少し期待していたのですが、いつの間にか消えてしまい……
今回の台風はどうやら良いコースで来てくれそうです。久々にパリっとした波でサーフィンしたいのもです。
と言う事で今週は仕事もサクサク進めて、早寝早起きに心がけたいです。って、いつもそうすべきですよね(汗)


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