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台風のご褒美 | CEED
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台風のご褒美


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台風が3連休に当たるなんて珍しいことですよねー。ちょっとしたご褒美みたいです。
僕も金土日と連続で海に入りだいぶ筋肉疲労気味です。
さすがに今日は他のポイントは軒並みクローズアウト状態だったので、いつも台風が直撃コースで来た時に楽しみにしてるポイントに行って見ました。逗子海岸の手前、海の中に浪子不動という石碑が立っているところのアウトで、湾の奥真ん中へんから湾の奥に向かってブレイクするポイントで、台風の時しかできないのですがリーフらしいきれいな波です。
サイズは頭半からたまにダブルくらいと結構大きいのですが、分厚くスローピーな波で、海のど真ん中みたいなロケーションも手伝って、ちょっと日本とは思えないような雰囲気が味わえます。
ダブルくらいのセットをまともにくらうとさすがにこたえるのですが、あそこまで大きいと波に巻かれるのもまた理屈抜きで爽快な気分で、一緒に入った昔の同僚と、終始笑いあいながらのサーフィンでした。

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